Prague (Day 16-17): Astronomical…and Cold

As this is my first venture into Eastern Europe, I am not sure what to expect other than extreme cold – it is November, after all.  We arrive after sunset (which is around 4pm this time of year) and the drive across the bridge into the heart of the city is littered with the lights from other bridges and looming castles and gothic structures in the distance.  Gorgeous! (in my best British accent)  My hotel is walking distance to the Charles Bridge and the Old Town square, but is of little interest as all I want is a shower and sleep.  13 hours of flying is exhausting.  My friend and I are meeting our beaus here (yes, we have men-folk) and our adventure in Prague will now be a foursome.

Tomato bisque

Beef Tartare

The next morning, we meet for a late lunch at La Bottega di Finestra, a mini café and bakery close by.  I do find it strange that, in our travels, we are forever eating non-local cuisine.  But, this is not a bad thing – as we have rarely had a bad meal.  After tomato bisque and beef tartare, I am prepared to take on the very old, very cold Prague.  The streets are cobblestoned and narrow – so many twists and turns, it’s a labyrinth of stone walls and single-paned windows.  I have never seen so many souvenir shops in an enclosed area.  What is Bohemia glass?  Is Prague known for beer steins (because I see them everywhere)?  Why does every restaurant have a guy standing outside, in the cold, with the menu?  If you post it on the wall, I can read it myself.  Now, I know that Prague is a city like any other, and cities mean 3 things: overabundance of cab drivers, Starbucks on every other corner and the homeless.  The less-fortunate are definitely present in the touristy areas, mostly kneeling over a dog or a blanket with an empty cup in hand without making eye contact.  It is like an unspoken rule.  You definitely take notice…

We spend some time in the square and see the Astronomical Clock, which is…astronomical(?).  It is pretty and all, but it’s just a clock.  Ok – so it chimes on the hour and puppets of Jesus and the apostles make an appearance.  And, sometimes, a trumpeter plays a short, classical ditty to which the crowd below applauds.  But, it’s a clock.  One that has so many hands, it makes it difficult to tell the time.  (shrug).

On the edge of the Square, there is a Dali Exhibition which is small, but brilliantly disturbing.  I have seen Dali works in St. Petersburg, Florida and Barcelona, Spain but this collection is probably from his older, perv-y era.   Penises, breasts and pubic hair abound on plates, prints and tapestries.   Ahem…ok.  Totally worth a look.

There are other museums and exhibits of more classical, tasteful work by world-renowned masters – and then there is the Sex Machines Museum.  Take note that you won’t see any pictures of those exhibitions here as I have chosen not to record my short time in the 3-storied hall of horrors.  They’ve got your typical devices of modern note, but some of the S&M stuff and (my god) exhibition of piercings will both amaze and disgust.  The top floor is a cornucopia of leather masks, metal restraints and metal-cages for the male genitalia. (insert thousand-mile-stare here).  But the worst, the piece-de-resistance, is a reel of a 1925 Italian porno with two very ‘rubenesque’ women and a short, stocky man.  It’s a silent picture.  I couldn’t watch.

Alas, some relief from the perils of culture day with drinks!  We find the Tapas Room and, incidentally, our server Augustine is a transplant from Argentina (or is it Spain?) who is helping his brother get the place going.  Lots of interesting drinks on the menu, but we are keeping with our Cape Town tradition and ordering caipirinhas.  Lots of them!  One final cup of gluhwein or hot, mulled wine on the way back to the hotel.  Who cares if its 34 degrees?  We are in Prague!

Umbrella people in New Town

Walking across the Charles Bridge

Green, vegetable curry – hot!

Our second day is a slight variation of the first.  We lunch at Lemon Leaf, a Thai restaurant in New Town.  We take the walk across the windy Charles Bridge

Roast duck with dumplings

Pork knuckle

and contemplate a walk up to the castle, but quickly retreat as it is 4:30pm, it’s dark and we are hungry.  We feast on a ‘real’ Czech dinner at U Balbinu: roasted duck with red cabbage and dumplings along with a roasted pork knuckles with horseradish and mustard.  Amazing!!  And another night at Tapas Room for two more rounds of drinks (thanks, Augustine!).

Prague in November is cold, dark, crowded and absolutely charming.  If you say in the right place, everything is walking distance.  And, the weather this time of year makes it perfect for snuggling in a cafe, sipping hot wine and people watching.

For my American friends – Happy Thanksgiving!!
For everyone else – Happy Thursday!!